Marktbreit: Augustan double legionary fortress deep in ‘Free Germany’

Overall Impact: * 1 star Site of double legionary camp deep into ‘Free Germany’

Roman Features None!

Display ** 2 stars Eight scholarly board around the site of the camps

Reconstruction None!

Access ** 2 stars Parking in nearby housing estate, paths across the fields

Atmosphere ** 2 stars Curiously atmospheric, provided you have a very good imagination!

Other ***** 5 stars A very strategic and historically important site.

This one is very different site: it shows the diversity of Roman sites and the many ways you can experience the remains of the Empire.

Given the markings above why on earth have we posted Markbreit? Here’s the story…

On business in Germany, one of us had the opportunity to stay the weekend, but this involved driving from Bamberg to Frankfurt. Recalling that there was an Augustan-era Roman army base on the River Main, I checked it out on Wikipedia and found a reference to Marktbreit. Then, utilising the amazingly dense and (legally) extremely fast autobahn network, I drove on Saturday afternoon to the very picturesque little medieval town of Marktbreit on the Main. Arriving at just after 5pm, I found the little town museum had just closed but not despairing, there was very helpfully a leaflet in a box outside the door referring to the extensive Roman finds on display from ‘the site on the Kapellenberg’. Using Google maps I located the site up a very steep hill above the town.

There, beyond a suburb of houses, in a field I spied what looked like a distant information board and, parking the car, I marched over to it. This was one of a set of eight boards around what turned out to be a very large site indeed. I couldn’t see the next board but managed to relate the site diagram to Google maps and after a walk up the hill found the next board and then the next.

Frankly, there is absolutely nothing to be seen above ground, so the ‘eye of faith’ is required. However, what we have here in Marktbreit is the pivotal Roman conquest base in the south of Germania in the years AD4 to AD9. It was discovered in 1985 by aerial photography and caused a sensation since a Roman fortress so far east of the Rhine and north of the Danube had not been suspected. It is polygonal in shape and sits on a sloping plateau high above a bend of the River Main. It is 37ha – yes 37ha – in size and the palisade was 2.25km in length – large enough to accommodate two full legions and auxiliaries as well. It is speculated that the Ist and Vth legions were intended to be the garrisons.

The large camp is built over a Hallstatt Celtic settlement and an earlier 9ha Roman camp.

It appears to have been abandoned before it was used; interesting parallels here with Inchuthill nearly a century later in Scotland. The palisade, the Commandant’s House (praetorium) joined to a high HQ (principia), officers’ quarters, granaries and kilns had been finished. Six coins and a terra sigillata stamp indicate a time period of AD4 to AD9. This strongly suggests that Marktbreit was abandoned after the annihilation of Varus the Governor of Germania and his three legions, by Arminius (Herman) at the Teutoburger Wald in the north of Germany in AD9..

It is important to remember that the Roman High Command had by AD9 decided that Germania was conquered territory, and was a Province inside the Empire. Albeit it was imperfectly subdued but this would have been seen as just a matter of time: consider how long it had taken Caesar and his successors to subdue Gaul. Therefore, planting a double legionary fortress and combined administrative centre in the heart of the south, in the territory of the Hermanduri made great sense. It was at the crossing of the two east-west and north-south lines of penetration: due south was the route to Augusta Vindelicorum (Augsburg); due west down the Main to Moguntiacum (Mainz); east up the Main to Bohemia and the Marcomanni; and north east over the watershed to the River Saal and thence the Elbe.

The Campaigns of Enobarbus and Tiberius
Map – Wikimedia Commons

The display board are tremendously informative and contain a wealth of information about the site and the Roman Army in general at the turn of the Millennium, complete with reconstructions of all kinds, referenced to scholarly works.

Introducing Caerleon Legionary Fortress

Overall         4**** A lot to see: for Britannia, these are substantial visible remains

Display         3*** Museum brilliant and Cadw great at Baths (amphitheatre & barracks less so)

Access           4**** You can walk around whole site with Caerleon village; easy parking

Atmosphere 4**** Once you have walked around you can start to imagine the Fortress

Other            5***** Caerleon is very rare in Britannia, since the other Legionary Fortresses (Colchester, Gloucester, Exeter, Lincoln, Chester and York) are under modern cities and there is little of the Fortress to see at Wroxeter (and nothing at Inchtuthil)

Caerleon Legionary Fortress of Legio II Augusta consistes of:

  • The Natatio and part of Frigidarium and Apodyterium of the internal Fortress Baths
  • The exposed Ramparts on the South and West sides
  • The Amphitheatre, just outside the South-West Gate
  • The ‘only exposed legionary barrack block in the Empire (?)’
  • The Legion Museum of the National Museum of Wales

Having failed to complete the conquest of the resident Iron Age tribe the Silures in South Wales in the AD50s, in AD75 Legio II Augusta moves from Exeter (Isca Dumnoniorum) to Caerleon (Isca) to complete the conquest. Unsurprisingly, the Romans have to quell determined military resistance.

The first fortress is constructed of timber with turf and earth ramparts. At a date quite soon after (probably around AD80) the whole fortress is rebuilt in stone, and a set of impressive fortress Baths are built in stone from the outset. By now, conditions for the occupiers are improving significantly .

In AD90 the Amphitheatre is begun and the fortress Baths receive their first refurbishment.  Then, in AD122, most of Legio II Augusta moves north to build Hadrian’s Wall, but Caerleon remains operational.

In AD 130 the Baths receive a total reshape, including new changing rooms, and the pool is shortened.

In AD193 under Septimius Severus, despite an apparent rebuild of the Principia (HQ), Isca is abandoned or at least ‘mothballed’.  This presumably reflects Legio II Augusta’s role campaigning in Scotland with the Emperor, with plans for permanent deployment in the North.  (Severus had deployed legions in his new Province of Mesopotamia in AD197.)

In AD211 the plan to abandon Isca is dropped and under Emperor Caracalla major repairs are undertaken  to the Fortress, Amphitheatre and Baths.  Legio II Augusta gains the title Anoniniana – ‘Caracalla’s Own’.

By AD250 major components of the Legion have left as vexillations (detachments) to fight in the Anarchy of the C3rd, leaving large parts of the Fortress unoccupied.

There is some rebuilding of barracks in AD253-258 and around AD274.

Between AD287 and 296 the main buildings of the Fortress are demolished and Legio II Augusta is moved to Richborough, possibly by the military commander – then usurper – Carausius, in order to defend against Channel raiders and, thereafter, against the legitimate Empire.

Caerleon

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The plan of the Stone Fortress, courtesy of Caerleon Research Committee

 

Prsyg Field Barracks, Caerleon

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Overall         2 ** interesting site, unique display of a legionary barrack block

Display         1 * one barrack block is original the other three are surface representations

Access           3 *** you can park in adjacent rugby club car park unless a match is on

Atmosphere 1 * the multiplicity of walls are confusing in the ‘real’ barrack block

Other             3 *** However all of this is part of the fabulous displays at Caerleon

In the North West of the Fortress there is a block of four barracks on view.  These constitute two-thirds of the barracks of a single Cohort.  The first line of barracks are the actual stone buildings, and are below ground level.   The other three barracks are much higher at current ground level are are modern.

The original barracks from 75AD were wooden, but the Fortress was rebuilt in stone over the next few years.  There is controversy as to whether only the bottom parts of the barracks were stone with timber top halves, or completely of stone.

The II Augusta was composed of 10 cohorts, each of six centuries composed of 80 legionaries.  The centuries were twinned reflecting the old Republican maniple, and the barrack blocks faced each other.  There were 10 contuburnia each of 8 legionaries in each century.  Each contubernium had two rooms in the barracks, one at the back with bunks and cooking equipment, and a room at the front for storage of weapons, armour and shields.

The excavated remains show 12 pairs of rooms, which allows for some to be used as store-rooms or new recruits.  At the other end of the barrack-block are the Centurion’s quarters, which combine quite lavish accommodation with the offices of the Century.

In summary this is rather a disappointing site, given what we are looking at here.  Unlike the Roman Baths where the site is brought to life through finds, light effects and models, here we are presented with the confusing multi period jig-saw of walls which make it very hard to envisage what life was like for the legionaries who built this and lived here. The best place to feel this is perhaps the admittedly auxiliary reconstructed barracks at the Saalburg.

The Legionary Amphitheatre at Caerleon

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Overall         3 *** important site, impressive scale and great setting

Display         2 ** site remains excellently consolidated, little information on site

Access           3 *** you can park in adjacent rugby club car park unless a match is on

Atmosphere 2 ** great impression, but far too pleasant for its original purpose!

Other             3 *** best amphitheatre in Britannia!

This is the only fully visible Legionary Amphitheatre in Britannia, and is another Mortimer Wheeler production, excavated in 1926-7.

It was constructed in cAD90 outside the South-West Gate of the Fortress on the Via Principalis, now called Broadway  It is c80m by c65m in size and elliptical in shape.  Its surviving lower part was made of stone and earth, with an upper part constructed of timber, forming a grandstand with tiers of wooden seating.  It is calculated that it could hold the full 6,000-man complement of Legio II Augusta.

There are two processional entries facing each other on the long axis, and two other entrances with waiting rooms for gladiators, prisoners and beasts, facing each other on the short axis.  The legionary stonemasons included inscribed stones with the name of the centurion of the Century that had built that section, sometimes with the Capricorn badge of II Augusta.  The originals are now in the Legion Museum, but replicas have been put in place and can be spotted.

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Entrance to Arena from Waiting Room

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The Shrine to Nemesis

There is a niche on the East with a shrine to Nemesis, which was identified by a curse tablet found nearby.  This added in 212-22, dated by brick work dating to Caracalla when Leg II Augusta held the title of Antonina.

Together with the vast Baths Complex, the Amphitheatre gives you an insight into the daily world of a Roman Legionary – certainly, in the late 1st and 2nd Centuries, not a humble ‘grunt’ but an accomplished professional military engineer, probably literate, well-paid and forming the sinews that held the Empire together.  A grateful Emperor and Respublica would provide him with all the comforts that could be built – not just bread and circuses, but baths and regular donatives of cash on special occasions.  As Septimius Severus said to his sons on his deathbed, ‘Be harmonious, enrich the soldiers, scorn everybody else’.

Most Roman amphitheatres have a thoroughly miserable and acutely depressing atmosphere; you only have to think of what happened in them.  However, at Caerleon, where the grass is frequented by picnicking families and boys kicking footballs, it is actually quite cheerful.

Unlike the rest of Caerleon, on site the information provided is meagre, so you need Cadw’s well-illustrated guide to the Fortress.

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Copy of Centurial Stone of Century of Claudius Cupitus

Roman Legionary Baths Caerleon

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Model of the Complex in the Cadw Cover Building

Overall          4 ****  Exposed remains of part of the huge Legionary Baths

Display         5 *****  Excellent; the light effects recreate the water and bathers

Access           3 ***  Car park outside, shared with the pub!

Atmosphere 4 ****  Magical light effects bring the baths to life

Other            Part of the best assemblage of legionary remains in Britannia, with friendly                         Cadw staff and family activities during the holidays.

You can only see a small part of the internal Baths of the Fortress, built of stone after AD75 by Legio II Augusta.  We are lucky, however, in that the Swimming Pool (Natatio), part of the Cold Room (Frigidarium) and part of the Changing Room (Apodyterium) are exposed.  The enormous Exercise Hall (Basilica), Warm Room (Tepidarium) and Hot Room (Caldarium) are  not visible, so the vast scale of the entire baths complex can only be imagined.

The displays are clearly – and very reasonably – aimed at the school visits market, with interactive games and dressing up.  There are also several clear explanatory boards, however, with exhibits of finds and – our favourite item – an excellent cut-away model of the whole Baths complex, as originally completed.

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Best of all are the light effects on the plunge pool which make it look as if it is full of water and in use by ghostly Roman bathers.  The pool was originally 41m long, held 365,000 litres of water, and had a larger surface area than the Great Bath at Aquae Sulis (Bath).

One of the most interesting findings to emerge from the excavations of the Baths was proof of their use by women and children, presumably related to the garrison. The collection of carved gemstones (intaglio) from the baths drain is a highlight.

The Baths building was refurbished in 87-95AD, and in c130 the pool was shortened. During Septimius Severus’ campaigns in Scotland the stone slabs of the lining were removed, possibly presaging a planned evacuation, but it was then re-lined and and continued in use until 240, with final abandonment in 290-300!

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What our visit brought home to us was the sheer scale and luxury of this ‘Legionary Recreation Centre’ in the middle of what was still, at the time of construction, a war-zone.  The Baths would have towered over the rest of the Fortress and, with an overall length of 110m, are comparable in size to a medieval Cathedral, the Basilica being comparable to the nave and the cold, warm and hot rooms like the chancel. The contrast between the conditions experienced by the Legionaries in the Fortress and the defeated Silures outside cannot be exaggerated.